How to Fit a Fire Door Closer (Correctly and Compliantly)

Practical Guide #15

For: Joiners, fitters, maintenance teams, housing officers

Why the Door Closer Is Non-Negotiable

Fire doors are only effective if they shut every single time.

A non-closing fire door is no better than a piece of plywood in a fire. The door closer makes sure the door returns to the frame — safely, silently, and under control.

Incorrect fitting? That door could slam, stall, drag, or stay ajar — and you’re wide open to liability.

1. Types of Fire Door Closers (Know What You’re Installing)

Type	Description	Typical Use
Overhead (face-fixed)	Most common; visible arms or scissor-link	Internal flat doors, risers, stairwells
Concealed overhead	Hidden in the top rail of the door/frame	High-spec flats, commercial installs
Perko-style	Chain-driven or spring closers	Not suitable for FD30/FD60 in most modern builds
Floor-spring	Closer built into the floor beneath the door	Commercial entrances, glass doors
Electro-magnetic	Linked to alarm system; releases on activation	Hospitals, corridors with hold-open doors

This guide assumes face-fixed overhead closers – the bread and butter of FD30/FD60 installs.

2. Fire Door Closer Requirements (BS EN 1154 Standard)

• Must be CE-marked and compliant with BS EN 1154

• Power size 3 or above for fire doors(Size 3 = min 60kg leaf, 950mm width)

• Must allow the door to close fully and latch from any angle

• Tested on the specific type of fire door it's installed on (check certification)

📌 Most off-the-shelf closers for FD30/60 are power adjustable between 3–6. Always check datasheets.

3. How to Fit an Overhead Door Closer

Tools:

• Drill/driver

• Screw fixings (usually 4–6 per plate)

• Template (supplied with most closers)

• Screwdriver & Allen keys for tension

Steps:

1. Confirm opening direction (left or right)

2. Fix the main body to the pull or push side (depends on closer type)

3. Fix the arm to the frame using the correct geometry

   • Parallel arm or regular mount, depending on door swing and clearance

4. Test the swing manually before adjusting tension

5. Adjust tension and latch speed via screw ports:

   • Closing speed = how fast the door swings shut

   • Latching speed = final 10° of closure to engage the latch

6. Test several times and ensure:

   • No slamming

   • No stalling

   • Full closure from halfway, 45°, and wide open

   
   
   
   

4. Common Mistakes and Failures

Mistake	Result
Wrong closer size	Can’t generate enough force to close fully
Misaligned arm	Door binds or doesn't reach the frame
Over-adjusted tension	Slams shut or strains hinges
Under-adjusted tension	Fails to latch
Not fire-certified model	Inspection fail
Painted-over adjustments	Makes tuning or inspection difficult

5. Post-Installation Checks

• Door closes from any open angle

• Closes without slamming

• Latch engages fully

• Closer is secure and not flexing

• No oil leaks from body

• Adjustment screws are accessible and labelled

• Log the install: date, model, installer

Final Word

A well-fitted closer is a silent lifesaver.

It works 10,000 times before anyone even notices — but the day it’s needed, it’ll make all the difference.

Take your time. Use the template. Tune it like an engineer.

Because when you fit it right, you don’t just meet regs — you raise the standard.