How to Check for a Certified Fire Door

Practical Guide #1

Who’s this for?

Joiners, caretakers, inspectors, building managers — basically anyone responsible for installing, maintaining, or signing off fire doors on-site or in-use.

Why it Matters

A fire door is only effective if it’s properly certified and hasn’t been tampered with or incorrectly fitted.

Unfortunately, plenty of fire doors in buildings across the UK are either fake, incorrectly installed, or have had parts swapped out — invalidating the entire assembly.

Knowing how to visually check a certified fire door is a basic but vital skill.

This guide gives you the essentials.

What to Look For

1. Certification Label or Plug

Every certified fire door should carry a label, plug, or tamper-proof marker from a recognised scheme. These are usually found:

• On the top edge of the door (most common)

• Occasionally on the hinge side

• Or inside the lock/latch mortice (less common)

Accepted certification bodies include:

• BM TRADA Q-Mark (usually a colour-coded plug)

• CERTIFIRE (label with CF number)

• IFCC

• FIRAS

• Global Assessment references (watch out — not always acceptable unless very specific)

🔧 If there’s no certification plug or label at all, treat the door as non-certified — even if it “looks” right.

2. Manufacturer Details

The label or plug should include:

• Door rating (e.g., FD30, FD60)

• Manufacturer or certifying body

• Certificate number

• Date of manufacture or issue (in some cases)

If it just says “FD30” with no traceable origin — it’s not compliant.

3. Compatible Components

Check that the ironmongery matches the certification. A door may start certified, but if someone replaces the hinges or seals with the wrong spec, it invalidates the set.

Typical checks:

• 3 CE-marked hinges

• Intumescent seals present and unbroken

• Fire-rated latch/lock/closer (usually marked with BS EN numbers)

• Correct gap tolerances (see our Inspection Guide)

4. Condition of the Door

Even a certified door becomes non-compliant if it’s:

• Been cut down (especially the top/bottom)

• Warped, damaged, or split

• Has missing seals or damaged edges

• Has screw holes or patched work around ironmongery

5. Check the Frame and Seals

• Frame should be compatible with the certified door leaf

• Intumescent seals must match the original test evidence

• Seals should be intact, continuous, and properly adhered

Common Mistakes

• Assuming any heavy door is a fire door

• Taking labels at face value without checking certificate number

• Replacing hinges or locks without fire-rated equivalents

• Not checking the top edge because it’s covered by a closer

Tools to Help

• Flashlight or phone torch

• Screwdriver (preferably powered) to remove ironmongery and check for cut-out size and the existence of intumescent seals

• Spacers for testing gaps - A one or two pound coin is good to test the 3mm Fire Door perimeter gap if you don't have calibrated spacers

• Your phone — to look up certificate numbers or scan QR plugs

Summary Checklist

• Certified plug or label from a recognised scheme

• Label includes FD rating + cert number

• CE-marked hardware (hinges, locks, closer)

• Intumescent seals fitted and intact - FD60 will normally have 2 rows of 15x4mm intumescent strip. Where as FD30 will have 1 row. Check it has a continuous smoke seal fin or brush.

• Frame and leaf match and haven’t been modified

• Door hasn’t been damaged, trimmed, or altered

• Thickness of door - generally 54mm doors used for FD60 and 44mm used for FD30 or Non Fire Rated.

• Type of timber used for frame - Normally FD60 will use a hardwood frame and on occasion MDF. Where as FD30 and non fire will often be either softwood (eg Pine) or MDF.

Stay Ahead of the Game

Want to check fire doors on the go?

[FireCheck360 Lite] 

helps installers and inspectors quickly verify compliance — with built-in tools, calculators, and guides.