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How to Check a Fire Door Closer (and When to Replace It)

  • Writer: FDH Team
    FDH Team
  • Jul 20
  • 2 min read

Updated: Sep 7


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Practical Guide #20



For: Inspectors, joiners, facilities managers, building owners



Why the Closer Is Crucial


A fire door without a properly functioning closer is not a fire door.

If it won’t shut fully, automatically, and reliably, it can’t contain fire or smoke.


Yet closers are one of the most neglected components in the field — often incorrectly set, broken, or even removed.



1. What a Compliant Fire Door Closer Must Do


To pass inspection, a closer must:


  • Shut the door fully and firmly onto the latch every time

  • Work from any open angle (even just a few cm)

  • Take no longer than ~10 seconds to close

  • Not slam, bounce, or leave a gap

  • Be suitable for the door size and weight

  • Be tested with the door leaf (if part of a certified door-set)



2. Types of Fire Door Closers


Type

Notes

Overhead (face-fixed)

Most common; visible box with arm

Concealed (transom)

Hidden in the frame head; usually in high-spec buildings

Perko-style chain

Often non-compliant unless part of tested system

Floor spring

Found in heavier or double doors

Electromagnetic hold-open closers

Must release on alarm or power failure


If it’s a rising butt hinge instead of a closer: non-compliant.


3. Visual Checks


  • Is the closer present and securely fixed?

  • Any signs of leaks (oil around arm or body)?

  • Is the arm bent, loose, or missing screws?

  • Are there scratch marks or scuffing on the frame (suggesting poor alignment)?

  • Does the door bang, stall, or need a push to shut fully?


🛠 Check that the latch engages without slamming. Latch should contact cleanly.


4. Functional Test (No Tools Needed)


  1. Open the door fully

  2. Let it go — watch for:

    • Smooth, controlled closure

    • No stalling mid-swing

    • Full latch engagement without needing extra push

  3. Open the door just slightly (~30°) — let it go

    • It should still close and latch


Record any failures or odd movement.



5. When to Replace the Closer


Symptom

Action

Door slams or bounces

Adjust closing speed / replace

Door doesn’t close fully

Check alignment / replace

Oil leaking

Replace immediately

Doesn’t work from partial open

Replace

Doesn’t hold door fully shut

Adjust / replace

Closer arm missing or damaged

Replace or repair with identical model

Closer not matched to door weight

Replace with correctly rated closer



6. Logging the Check


Example:


  • Door ID: FD-116

  • Closer type: Overhead, surface-mounted

  • Latch engagement: Yes

  • Open-angle test: Pass

  • Partial open test: Fail ❌

  • Visible damage: No

  • Notes: Adjustment attempted, still stalls

  • Action: Replace closer

  • Inspector name/date



Final Word


The closer is your unsung hero — quietly ensuring the door is always ready.

But if it fails even once, it could cost lives.


Check it. Log it. Trust it — or replace it.

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